5 Ways Home Gardeners Can Make More Robust Soil

As a child, Kristin Ohlson had easy access to gardens. Her grandparents maintained a small orchard and grew produce on their farm; her parents also planted huge plots of vegetables and flowers each year. While Ohlson didn’t develop a deeper agricultural interest until she grew up (all those hours harvesting vegetables cut into childhood playtime, after all), she eventually started researching how food is grown. And that research turned into a minor obsession.

In her 2014 book, The Soil Will Save Us, Ohlson documents how soil scientists are experimenting with cover crops, composting, no-till techniques, and other methods that help farmers reduce their reliance on fertilizer and rethink their relationships with soil. “Dirt First,” her more recent feature for Orion Magazine, and a Q&A with the Food & Environment Reporting Network (FERN) dive even deeper into the subject, exploring the role that microorganisms play in soil health, for both farm fields and backyard gardens.

“Plants pull carbon dioxide from the atmosphere through photosynthesis and create a carbon syrup,” she writes. “About 60 percent of this fuels the plant’s growth, with the remaining exuded through the roots to soil microorganisms, which trade mineral nutrients they’ve liberated from rocks, sand, silt, and clay—in other words, fertilizer—for their share of the carbon bounty.”

But before you chalk this all up as far too heady for the home gardener, check out her five easy steps for nurturing vegetables and flowers with natural methods based on that big-picture research—but applied to our own backyards.

1. DISTURB THE SOIL AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE

Soil health starts with one basic principle: Don’t disturb the dirt. Sure, soil supports roots and helps hold up plants, but it also serves as a habitat for beneficial microorganisms.

“Underneath our feet is this incredible world teeming with billions of microorganisms that have been working in the soil for millions of years,” Ohlson says. “That ecosystem in the soil is what plants depend on for their nutrition, their water, and their defenses against chemicals, diseases, and insects.”

Rather than tilling garden rows and digging deep holes for new plants, she suggests leaving the soil structure as intact as possible. Poke small holes for seeds and dig slightly bigger spaces before planting seedlings.

2. MAKE PEACE WITH WEEDS

It may sound counter-intuitive—maybe even chaotic, in terms of landscaping—but weeds don’t need to be treated as an enemy. Even uninvited plants can help protect soil and feed the microorganisms at work below the surface.

“I used to dig up weeds or pull them out by the roots, but now I don’t want to disturb the soil. I go around with scissors and snip weeds off at the soil level instead,” says Ohlson. She then scatters clipped stems and leaves between the plants she wants to keep. This organic matter functions as mulch and acts as compost as it decomposes.

3. ENCOURAGE DIVERSITY

“In nature, there is this vast abundance of diversity—plants and insects and all kinds of life—in every square foot. This biodiversity helps feed and support the biodiversity in the soil,” she says. (Check out the incredible variety of plants in this enchanting Texas garden.)

Follow nature’s lead in your garden by growing a variety of vegetables, fruits, flowers, herbs, and other plants in close proximity. The variety promotes healthy, robust soil and might also attract a new mix of pollinators.

4. PLANT COVER CROPS

Every gardener has heard this one before, and Ohlson is a firm believer as well. She aims to keep her garden soil engaged, either by covering it in dead plant material or by nurturing live roots in the ground. Cover crops play a dual role. They interact with microorganisms by extending their roots as they grow, and they provide extra organic material to protect the soil once they’re harvested. In small gardens, simply clip cover crops with scissors and scatter over bare ground.

Not sure what kind of cover crop to plant? First, consider what might thrive in your location and climate. “Then, see what plants and flowers are native to your region,” Ohlson suggests. “But really, I think people can use almost anything, as long as it grows.” (These 5 cover crops will keep a small plot healthy.)

5. TRADE FERTILIZER FOR COMPOST

When plants rely on fertilizer, they get lazy. Their partnership with microorganisms in the soil changes, and that can impact the wider microbe community. By using compost instead, you’re enhancing the soil with a concentration of microorganisms and carbon that help plants thrive.

If making your own seems too messy or daunting, look into local sources. Some cities collect food waste and make the resulting compost available to the public. Elsewhere, garden and hardware stores sell organic compost by the bag. You might find regional farmers who can supply the materials you need, as well.

“I also put sticks, some food waste, and dead plant matter around my living plants. That keeps the benefits of compost happening on the most basic level,” Ohlson says.

FOR SMALL-SPACE GARDENERS

Ohlson’s overall advice is similar for gardeners who grow plants in pots or containers, where soil mindfulness is especially important.

“When water hits bare soil, it compacts that soil. Even the force of one raindrop can make an impact. So, the less that bare soil is exposed to water, the healthier that soil is,” she says. “Even in a small pot, I don’t want to be pouring water directly on the soil. I’d rather have it seeping through clipped plant material and reaching the soil in a gentler way.”

Ohlson has two raised beds in her own backyard and she packs them with a diverse selection of vegetables, flowers, and shrubs. “I plant things really close together and try to have a lot of live roots in the ground. It’s so rewarding to see the incredible production I get out of these two tiny raised beds,” she says.

[via Rodale's Organic Life]

8 Healing Herbs You Can Grow

Please note: Healing herbs are not meant to be medicinal, and that you must be careful that any plant you ingest is safe for you and your family.

1. Chamomile

Chamomile is known by almost everyone for it’s ability to ease us into sleep, when steeped into a tea. It also is used for stomach upset. Dry the flowers for long term storage in ziploc bags, or use them fresh steeped into a tea. This is a gentle herb that can be used for children as well.

The best variety to grow, and the most commonly used for tea is German Chamomile. This is an annual that grows into a bushy plant about 2 feet tall. It prefers well draining soil, full sun to part shade, and moderate water. Chamomile is easy to grow from seed.

2. Feverfew

Feverfew (Tanacetum) has had some scientific studies done on it’s use for migraine headaches, with some positive results. Brewed into a tea, feverfew is best used as a preventative for migraines.

Grow Feverfew from seed, sprinkled onto the soil in early spring. Like Chamomile, it needs light to germinate, so don’t cover, just water in. Give it plenty of sun and you will be rewarded with hundreds of tiny button daisy flowers on a 20 inch bush. This is also an annual, but tends to self seed liberally. Also like Chamomile, brew flowers into a tea.

3. Lavender

Lavender is used to ease tension, and is generally used in aromatherapy… that is, the scent is used in oils and infusions. It is also edible, the flowers being used in salads or drinks, and can also be brewed into any tea.

Easy to grow, lavender loves the sun, and is drought resistant. It does fine in poor soil, but the soil must be well drained. It will not tolerate heavy soil. Several different types and colors are available , the most common is English Lavender, but French Lavender and Spanish Lavender are popular as well, although less hardy. The varieties bloom at slightly different times, but usually from later spring through mid summer, with another short flush in the fall.  A short lived perennial, it will come back for several years, but will then tend to die back, stating in the center of the plant. Luckily, you will find many volunteers popping up ready to take it’s place. Did we mention, it’s gorgeous as well?

4. Peppermint

Peppermint is one of the tummy trouble remedies I actually use, and so do my kids… It really does help relieve nausea and even stomach cramps. It can be energizing as well.

Peppermint is an aggressive plant that can take over a garden if you let it! Although I love growing any kind of mint, if you don’t want to be pulling it like a weed, plant it in pots. Prefers afternoon shade in hot areas, can tolerate some shade in any area. Perennial that comes back every year. Grows best in fertile, moist soil. Flowers are not showy. Foliage is aromatic, and leaves are edible in salads, sauces and can even be frozen in ice cubes to refresh cold drinks.

5. Thyme (Thymol)

Thyme is a powerful antiseptic and astringent. Used for coughs and sore throats, it is gargled with or made into a tea, usually in combination with other herbs. Also used as a disinfectant spray.

Thyme is an herb that has become popular with several decorative varieties in the last few years, including one of my favorites, ‘Doone Valley Thyme’ with its pink flowers. Flowers are tiny but plentiful, and the plant loves sun and tolerates drought. Varieties exist from the low growing ‘creeping Thyme’, to the parent variety, common thyme. Common thyme has been said to have the highest level of Thymol, or oils. A semi woody shrub, it is useful in the garden as well as the kitchen.  Easy plant to grow.

6. Garlic

Garlic is one of those herbs that continues to prove it’s health benefits. Long known for it’s cardiovascular health benefits, it is also used as an anti viral and anti fungal… In my opinion, the best way to take advantage of the healing powers of garlic is to cook with it!

Garlic is easy to grow, especially if you already grow vegetables. Each clove from a garlic bulb will grow into it’s own bulb, and yes, you can plant from grocery store garlic. Simply soak them in a jar of water with a tablespoon of baking soda before planting, to prevent fungal diseases.

Plant garlic in fall, and allow to overwinter. In June or July, when the green stalks are 3/4 brown, gently dig up bulbs and tie together several bunches, then hang to dry. Store in a dry, cool place. Make really good pasta!

7. Lemon Balm

Lemon Balm is used in a tea for anxiety. Just pick the leaves as desired and brew.

Grow lemon balm in  partly shady area for best results. Rich, moist soil will give you the best plants with the highest amount of oils in the leaves. Being a tender perennial, it will not survive any but the modest winters.

8. Parsley

Lastly, we have parsley. More than a garnish at the side of the plate, parsley helps cleanse the liver, flush the system of excess water and soothes the stomach.

Parsley prefers part shade and rich soil, and does well grown indoors in a sunny windowsill. I prefer to grow the flat leaved variety. Give afternoon shade in hot areas. Harvest by cuttings leaves as needed.

[via The Garden Glove]

Learn How to Grow Peanuts in Your Spring Garden

Peanuts are not actually nuts, they are a vegetable that belongs to the legume family. Learn how to grow peanuts in your garden and enjoy the benefits of this hassle free, delicious crop.

Peanuts are native to South America and take about 120 days tomature. The plant is hardy and can withstand light spring and fall frosts. Although peanut plants are normally considered to be Southern crops, Northern gardeners can grow them successfully if they start the plants indoors, and use certain varieties that can withstand cooler climates.

Planting

Peanuts require full sun and soil with good drainage. You can ensure enough drainage by working in organic matter in order to make it loose and friable.

Peanut seeds can be planted hulled or unhulled but be sure not to remove the thin, pinkish brown seed coverings, otherwise the seed will not germinate.

If you live in a cooler climate, start your peanut plant indoors in a large pot about a month before the last frost. Seeds should be sowed on inch deep and placed in the sunniest spot possible. Be sure to water weekly. You can transplant your peanut seedlings into your outside garden once the soil is between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Transplants should be spaced 10 inches apart.

If you live in a warmer climate, plant your crop outdoors around the last expected frost. Space your seeds 2 inches deep and 5 inches apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet apart. Be sure to water well and thin the plants to 10 inches apart.

Growing

Once it is about 1 foot tall, long, pointed pegs will grow from faded flowers and push 1 to 3 inches into the soil. This is where you will find the peanut. The soil around the plant should be soft enough so that the pegs growing from the plant do not have too much difficulty penetrating the soil. You can help your plant by laying down some light mulch, like grass clippings or straw to prevent the hardening of soil.

1 inch of water a week is perfect for a peanut plant. Since it is a legume, it can supply its own nitrogen. The use of nitrogen-rich fertilizer will encourage foliage instead of fruit, so try to avoid the use of any fertilizer that may contain a lot of nitrogen. Soil that is well-prepared will provide all the nutrients the plants need.

Harvesting

Once the leaves turn yellow and the peanuts’ inner shells have gold looking veins, your crop is ready to harvest. You can check the peanuts periodically by pulling out a few nuts and shelling them. The pegs will become very brittle and the pods will break off if you wait too long to harvest. To harvest, pull the entire plant our of the ground while the soil is moist. Dry the plant in an airy space until the leaves become crumbly. Once the plant is dried, remove the pods. Unshelled peanuts can be stored for up to a year if they are stored in an airtight container.

[via Real Farmacy]

14 Edible Plants You Can Grow Indoors

Many of us dream of having our own vegetable patch, but it can be challenging to find the ideal space – and that’s assuming you have a garden at all. If you don’t then you’re in luck, you don’t need a large out door plot to grow all your ideal crops, for many edible plants all you need is a sunny spot inside.

The idea of growing an indoor farm, full of healthy food you can spoil yourself with over summer may sound too good to be true. But with a little love and care, whether you live in a house or a flat, you can grow a variety of fresh veg, fruit and even edible flowers ready for your next dinner party – guaranteed to impress.

But the benefits don’t stop there, growing your own greenery will give the satisfaction of harvesting your own foodstuff, save you money and added health benefits making your five a day a walk in the park. You might even start replacing that takeaway pizza with home-grown veg packed with vitamins and minerals.

You can grow almost any plants indoors with a loving hand, best growth occurs in areas that receive plenty of sunlight, such as windowsills. But for those of you who just don’t have a sunny spot to make the most of, grow lights can allow you to cultivate your edible plants in even the darkest of corners.

Although growing conditions vary from plant to plant, a few general rules should be followed. If you’re starting completely from scratch, sowing seeds on moistened soil, covered with plastic wrap and kept in a warm area will get your plants off to the best possible start. Also ensuring all pots and containers have drainage holes or a layer of grit to prevent root rot and overwatering will make sure your plants stay strong and healthy.

For more on edible plants you can grow indoors – including sowing and harvesting times – check out our helpful infographic below.

[via Pounds to Pockets]

How to Correctly Plant Tomatoes to Get 5–8ft Plants

How do we plant a tomato, you might ask?  With a ridiculous amount of stuff in the hole, is the answer.  When someone ropes me into telling them and I start the long answer, I eventually see their eyes glaze over.  That’s the point where I say, “Then you throw in the kitchen sink and cover it all up.”  To date, no one has laughed at that joke. I think they’re just either too overwhelmed by the real stuff we put in there, or they actually believe we’re throwing in a sink.

This is how we plant a tomato.  First off, let’s take a look at our sexy specimen here on the left.

We started this beauty in our heated greenhouse in late January. We potted it up to a gallon container about 3 or 4 weeks ago.  It will go into one of our freshly prepared beds, shown to the right.

The tomatoes are placed three feet apart. I’ve learned over the years that spacing them closer than that means less fruit.  We dig a nice deep hole to accommodate all the additions – the exact depth is dependent upon how tall the seedling is that you start with.  We want the plant to be almost completely submerged into the soil, and the fish head and amendments put into the hole need to be covered with a bit of soil, so we plan accordingly for the depth.  This particular hole ends up being almost two feet deep, and is ready for our first goody, these impressive fish heads.




We get them from the restaurant we grow for, Manresa.  You might be able to get them free from a good butcher or fishmonger.  I even know of someone who called a few restaurants in their area and was quickly rewarded with a nice bounty of juicy fish heads.  Fish tails, spines, guts, as well as shrimp, crab, or lobster shells are all good as well.  Some of you may worry about critters digging these up later.  We’ve never had a problem with animals digging up my tomatoes, and we’ve got three dogs, two cats, and what seem like an endless supply of raccoons living on the property.  I stress the point that this is the first thing that goes into our very deep planting hole.  That may help keep it from getting dug up.  You can see the six inch long fish head staring up at us from the bottom of the hole here.

If you’re reticent to put the fish head in the hole, or simply can’t get your mitts on any, we recommend using fish meal as a substitute. Two handfuls is about right. We get ours from Gardner & Bloome.

The next thing that goes into the hole are a couple of aspirin tablets and some crushed chicken egg shells. The aspirin is to help jump start the plant’s immune system.  You can read more about that science here.  We’ll put three or four crushed egg shells into the hole as well. You can see our three colors of eggs from our fancy chickens – yes, those are green eggs in there. The eggs supply a nice calcium boost, which will help prevent blossom end rot, that nasty brown patch on the bottom of tomatoes that lack calcium (the fish head bones and bone meal also help with that).

Bone meal is the next to go into the hole.  We put in a heaping handful of bone meal.  This is a nice organic phosphorus source, which is essential for blossom production.  More blossoms, more fruit.  Bone meal also increases calcium availability for the tomato. This is also a Gardner & Bloome product.

We then put in two handfuls of Gardner & Bloome’s Tomato, Vegetable and Herb Fertilizer. It’s an all-purpose  organic fertilizer that contains the essential macronutrients of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassiun. Their mix is a very nice 4-6-3 of those nutrients.

We also recommend putting a handful of pure worm castings in the bottom of the hole.  We amend our beds with worm castings and we also spray a worm casting tea on the plants while they grow.  Really great stuff.  Worm castings are available for sale at our tomato plant sale.

The hole is complete (sans kitchen sink) and we’re now ready to pop in the tomato plant.  We trim off the lower leaves, be there one, two, three or more, leaving only the top-most leaves.

We put an inch or two of soil on top of the amendments in the hole.  The plant is eased out of the pot, and before it’s placed in the hole, I sprinkle a third of a cup or more on the rootball with a product called Xtreme Gardening’s Mykos, which is a mycorrhizal fungi that attaches to the roots, growing as the root ball grows.  It protects the plant from some diseases, such as verticillium and fusarium wilts.  If there are any “silver bullets” here, it is this healthy addition of mycorrhizal fungi.

Once the tomato is in the hole, we double check the depth by judging how far out of the ground the plant will be sticking.

If it’s going to be too far down, we’ll remove the plant and add some more soil.  If it looks like it’ll be up above the soil more than we want, that’s too bad because we ain’t gonna be fishing them fish parts and all that other stuff up out of that hole and digging it deeper.  No siree.  So we try our best to gauge the depth of the hole according to the height of the plant we’re putting in.

We then back fill GENTLY – only one quasi-firm push settles the soil around the plant.

Please do not man-handle the soil around the plant by stomping on it or pressing too hard.  That’s not necessary and it expels all the air out of the soil.  Believe it or not, the roots need oxygen down there just as much as they need nutrients and water.

A temporary well is then made around the plant base to catch the first watering. The first watering is the most critical.  We do it multiple times.  Water it in once, twice, three times at least.  Wait a few minutes to allow the water to drain through.  If you have a deep hole, likely way more than 12 inches deep, you will be amazed at how much water it will take to wet the root ball a foot or more under the ground.  So don’t be stingy with the water the first day. Thereafter, you can back off the watering.  Here’s our finished bed.  You can see the tomatoes are spaced pretty far apart:

Drip irrigation will be repositioned on the bed, and staking and mulching has yet to be done.  In the meantime, please feel free to email us or leave a comment below with any questions.

If you’re still not getting the results you want, then consider taking this Tomato Masters class.

You can find more information all about tomatoes on the World Tomato Society website.

Good luck, folks!

[via RealFarmacy, Grow Better Veggies]

10 Reasons To Eat Sprouts Daily & How To Grow Your Own

Sprouts are an amazing little nutrient dense, powerhouse superfood. Sprouts are shoots from a plant seed. They come in many different varieties and lucky for us a whole bunch of these are edible! Green, red leaf, alfalfa, radish, broccoli, and clover are a few different varieties of sprouts, but did you know that you can also sprout chickpeas, quinoa, lentils and even almonds?

There are many reasons why sprouting is a good idea: it is extremely economical, you can ensure that you are getting extremely fresh, organic, local food into your diet daily and you can do it from home all winter long. I don’t think there is one good reason not to sprout. Here are the top 10 reasons to eat sprouts daily.

1. Enzymes

It has been estimated that there can be up to 100 times more enzymes in sprouts than in uncooked fruits and vegetables. Enzymes are types of proteins that act as catalysts for all of your bodily functions. Enzymes extract more vitamins, minerals, amino acids and fatty acids from the foods that you eat and ensures your body has the nutritional building blocks to ensure every process works as effectively as possible.

 2. More Fiber

Fiber is an extremely important factor in any diet, did you know it actually binds to fats and toxins within our bodies and helps us eliminate them? It also ensures that any fat our bodies break down is moved through the body before it has a chance to reabsorb through the walls of the intestines.

3. Higher Vitamin Content

The vitamin content from certain seeds, grains, beans and nuts actually increases by up to 20 times the original value after only a few days of sprouting. Mung beansprouts, for example, increase in vitamin B1 by up to 285 percent, vitamin B2 by up to 515 percent and niacin by up to 256 percent.

4. Your Body Can Easily Utilize Sprouts

During the sprouting process, minerals bind to the proteins in the seeds, nuts or grains making them more useable in the body. This is true especially for more alkalizing minerals such as calcium and magnesium, they help us balance our body chemistry for potential weight loss and better health.

5. Sprouts Have The Highest Concentration Of Phytonutrients Of Any Food

That is a pretty bold statement, but according to this study from the Journal of Applied Science it is true. Phytonutrients play an active role in the amendment of disease.

6. Research Shows Sprouts May Prevent Cancer

There have been numerous studies done to show that the consumption of sprouts can actually prevent various forms of cancer. One study in particular that was led by scientists from John Hopkins, found that a highly concentrated source of sulforaphane, a compound they identified in 1992 that helps mobilize the body’s natural cancer-fighting resources and reduces the risk of developing cancer. Broccoli sprouts, contain unusually high levels of glucoraphanin, the naturally-occurring precursor of sulforaphane.

7. Sprouts Can Help Alkalize Your Body

Sprouts themselves are quite alkaline, eating them can directly help maintain the acid alkaline balance within the body, which ultimately leads to good health overall. Nobel Prize winner Otto Heinrich Warburgh stated:

“Cancer cannot exist in an alkaline oxygen rich environment.”

8. Energizing

The energy contained in the little seed, nut, bean, or grain is ignited through the soaking and sprouting process.

9. Extremely Economical

Sprouting is extremely cheap! Sure you can buy little plastic containers at the store for around $2-$4 for conventional and $3-$5 for organic. Or you could save your money, save the environment, save the trip to the store and sprout your own for just pennies a batch!

10. Sprouts Are Extremely Easy To Grow Yourself Anytime Of The Year

Sprouts are grown indoors, most varieties need only water, and many don’t even need sunlight. All you need is a jar, a piece of mesh or old pantyhose, water and sprout seeds!

Bonus: Sprouts are extremely tasty! I like to eat them sprinkled in salads, on sandwiches, and on flatbread type crackers with Vegenaise and tomato slices. Mmm mm good!

How To Sprout Your Own Sprouts

What You Need:

• A thoroughly cleaned mason jar
• A piece of fine mesh or a piece from an old pair of pantyhose big enough to cover the top of the jar (cheesecloth doesn’t work very well for this because sometimes the seeds get caught in the material.)
• Sprouting seeds
• Water

Instructions:

1. Put between 2 and 4 Tablespoons of any kind of sprout seeds you choose. I really like Mumm’s brand seeds. They are organic and they also have a variety of many yummy sprout combinations. My favorite is the “sandwich booster” blend. Sometimes I add a little “crunchy bean mix” and sprout these together. Its very simple.
2. Cover the seeds with filtered water, let seeds soak for 8 hours or over night.
3. Cover the top of the jar with the mesh or pantyhose and secure with either the ring only for the top of the jar or a tightly wrapped elastic band.  Drain the water.
4. Pour some more water over the seeds, then swirl the jar around to rinse them, then discard the water.
5. Put the jar in a bowl or container so that it can sit downwards at about a 45-degree angle, so the water can drain out.
6. Place the jar in a dark area, or in a cupboard. Rinse the sprouts and replace them in the downward position twice daily.
7. Your sprouts should be ready in about 3-5 days, enjoy!

You can also buy nifty little sprouting devices in the form of jars or trays, but this isn’t really necessary. The method above has worked very well for me over the years. Happy sprouting!

[via Collective Evolution]

Healing Herbs for the Respiratory System

Fall is here and winter waiting on our door steps, the garden is dying back, the plants have shed their last seeds and are being tucked in for their winter beauty sleep. As our own energy starts to move inward as well and our bodies are getting ready for the colder season, it is the perfect time to strengthen and support the respiratory system.

In this part of Mother Earth News “Plant a Medicinal Herb Garden” series we will look at easy to grow herbs that will support and heal the the lungs, throat and sinuses, while adding flavor to your kitchen and beautifying your garden.

Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis)

Hyssop is a sun loving, perennial, low growing shrub with beautiful dark blue blossoms that attract many bees and pollinators. Hummingbirds love it too. Hyssop is drought resistant and does well in poor and sandy soil. It is an herb in the mint family and has a delicious aromatic and minty scent. Hyssop's warming energetics make it a fine remedy for a stubborn cough and shivers. The responsible medicinal constituents are soothing to the lungs and help to loosen and expel mucus when taken internally (see recipes below). In addition, hyssop is a good carminative, meaning it supports healthy digestion and prevents formation of gas.

How to Make a Tincture

Here is the link again to Rosemary Gladstar's video on How to Make a Tincture in case you have never made one before. It is an easy process to make your own green medicine from freshly picked herbs from your garden. You will pay a fraction of the cost compared to a store bought tincture and your medicine will be just as effective if not more potent with the help of your intentions and the love you gave to the plant in your garden. When you grow your own medicine, you ultimately give that attention and love to yourself.

How to Make an Oxymel

An oxymel is another very good tasting way to extract the medicinal constituents from hyssop. Instead of using alcohol as a solvent, organic apple cider vinegar and raw honey are combined. You can take a teaspoon straight up as needed during a cough or cold or add it to salad dressings as a delicious culinary treat with many health benefits.

To harvest hyssop, cut the flowering tops in early summer when the flowers are just about to open. At this time, the plant holds the highest concentrations of medicinal essential oils. The plant will grow new flowers and you can harvest a second time later in the year.

Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)

Just like hyssop, anise hyssop is also a hardy perennial herb in the mint family. It grows up to 4 feet tall with heart-shaped leaves that have a pretty purple rim. The stalks of light purple flowers are a favorite of bees and bumblebees. It is self-seeding and will happily spread around your garden. Leaves and flowers have a subtle licorice aroma, hence its other name – licorice mint.

How to Use Anise Hyssop

Anise hyssop makes an aromatic tea from the fresh or dried leaves and flowers that eases digestion. The fresh leaves are also a lovely addition to salads. Native Americans used anise hyssop medicinally for coughs and fevers, and so do I.

A tea or tincture blend of anise hyssop and hyssop combined soothes and helps to heal irritated lung tissue during a respiratory infection. We made an oxymel from hyssop and anise hyssop combined and it is my favorite in salad dressings.

Anise hyssop can be harvested several times per year. Harvest the flowering tops when the plant is starting to bloom. Cutting back the flowers before they can mature into seeds invigorates the plant to grow new flowers – which can be cut again a few weeks later. That way you can enjoy fresh anise hyssop tea all summer long. Place a good hand full of fresh leaves and flowers in a teapot or large ball jar. Poor boiling water over the herb and close the lid to make sure the precious essential oils do not escape. Let steep for 5-10 minutes, strain, sweeten with a touch of honey to taste - and enjoy!

How to Dry Herbs

To dry medicinal or culinary herbs, harvest the flowering tops, bind three or four stalks tightly together with a rubber band and hang upside down to dry in a well ventilated room that is protected from night moisture. After a few days or a week, roll a leave between your fingers next to your ear. When the plant is fully dried, it will “crackle and pop”. If the leaves are still floppy, dry them a little longer. Pull the leaves from the stems (this process is called garbling the herb) and store in a ziplock mylar bag or tightly closed ball jar in a cool place out of direct sunlight.

Mullein (Verbascum thapus)

Mullein is a tall standing bi-annual plant that forms a rosette of velvet soft, large leaves in the first year and a tall stalk covered with small yellow blossoms in the second year. The plant self-seeds before it dies and will spread around your garden so you never have to plant it again. In ancient times, mullein was considered a protector against evil spirits as it stands tall and straight like a guardian when in bloom.

Mullein Medicine

All parts of mullein can be used medicinally, but the leaves is what we are after for their soothing and coating effects on the mucus membranes, such as the lung tissue and sinuses. This medicinal action is called demulcent. Mullein and osha root tincture combine very well to treat stubborn sinus infections.

Mullein flowers can be used to make a healing ear oil for ear infections. It works especially well when combined with garlic oil.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)

Wild thyme is a sun loving perennial ground cover, temperate in all zones, that will compete with your lawn, and win (!), when you don't mow it during its self-seeding time. A soft bed of flowering thyme will spread through your lawn that will release its lovely scent with every step you take on it. It also makes a nice border in ornamental flower beds.

Thyme has strong anti-bacterial and anti-septic properties. Both the tincture and tea are useful during respiratory infections. A steam bath with dried or fresh thyme works wonders for congestion and sinus infections.

Thyme Steam Inhalation for Sinus Infections

Pour boiling water into a bowl and add a tablespoon of fresh or dried thyme leaves. Stir with a wooden spoon. Place your head about 12 inches above the bowl and cover your head and the bowl with a towel. Close your eyes and inhale the aromatic thyme steam through your nose for 2 to 5 minutes. It will clear up your sinuses and lungs and help to loosen phlegm and mucus, while delivering the anti-bacterial essential oils straight to the places where they are needed. If you feel the steam is too hot, raise the towel a little so cool air can come in.

Dabbing some thyme tincture on your gums several times a day is a great remedy for gum disease.

In addition, thyme tincture can be used as an all natural disinfectant in your home. Simply mix a tablespoon of tincture with some vinegar and water, spray on your counter tops and wipe off.

Sage (Salvia officinalis)

Garden sage is a perennial shrubby herb that can grow up to 3 feet tall. The velvety leaves are not only a wonderful culinary herb but also have powerful anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties and the fresh purple and pink blossoms are delicious in a raw sage blossom pesto.

Medicinal Uses of Sage

Sage is an extremely versatile herb. A tea from sage, thyme, hyssop, anise hyssop and mullein is a great remedy for coughs and colds. Add raw honey for extra healing and anti-bacterial action.

Make a sage honey (yummy!) and take it by the teaspoon for the cold and flu and to soothe a sore throat.

To help heal a sore throat you can also make a strong sage tea, add a dash of salt and use as a gargle. This is also a good remedy for mouth sores.

For fungal skin infections, such as athlete's foot, mix a few drops of tea tree essential oil with sage tincture and rub it onto the affected area.

Garlic (Allium sativum)

Yes, garlic! Plant lots of garlic in the fall and mulch it well with straw. Garlic is one of the strongest anti-bacterial herbs around. It contains over 50 sulfur compounds that have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal action. These compounds are broken down in the lungs, which is the reason for garlic breath. It also means that the medicine is working right where you need it - in your lungs.
garlic

Garlic Medicine

Roast a whole garlic bulb in the oven and enjoy two to three garlic cloves spread on a piece of bread or a gluten free rice cracker.

You can also add fresh garlic cloves to a green smoothy or hearty vegetable juice.

Both recipes will work wonders on stubborn lung infections and candida yeast infections.

[via Mother Earth News]

What To Plant in August

The garden doesn’t have to stop producing just because summer is waning. In fact, August is the perfect time to add some variety and get a second season harvest from your space. Plant these garden favorites and harvest right through the fall and have plenty to preserve for winter as well.

Kale

If you haven’t grown kale yet, there is no time like the present. Start it now and in many zones you’ll be able to harvest right through the winter months. In fact, a bit of frost will just make these tasty greens even sweeter.

Lettuce

Cooler temperatures are on the way, and that’s perfect for lettuce. Plant now for fresh salad greens (and reds) for weeks and months to come.

Beans

Believe it or not there is still plenty of time for another round of beans. Select fast growing varieties and get ready to preserve the bounty because beans love this time of year almost as much as I do.

Radishes

Radishes are one of the fastest growing garden vegetables, usually ready from seed to table in less than a month. Plant a few rows every two weeks for fresh radishes all season.

Spinach

Spinach thrives in the cooler temps of fall, and getting those seeds in the ground now will give them plenty of time to get a strong root system before the weather cools off.

[via Urban Fig]

How to Start an Organic Garden in 9 Easy Steps

The Benefits of Organic Gardening

You've been trying to eat more organic foods, both to decrease the amount of pesticides you and your family consume, and to help protect the environment from overloading with toxic chemicals. But organics can get a bit expensive, we know. Luckily, there's a way to grow your own delicious, fresh produce, while having fun and learning at the same time: organic gardening!

Don't know where to start? It is possible to hire someone to install and maintain a beautiful organic garden for you. But most of us can roll up our sleeves with a surprisingly small amount of effort. Remember, you can start small, even with just a single plant or two. Don't worry if things aren't perfect right away.

Organic gardening means you won't be using synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, but that doesn't mean your plants are left to fend for themselves. There are an array of tools you can use to bolster plant health and ward off pests. Organic gardening also isn't just about what you don't do, it's about trying to foster a more holistic, natural ecosystem. Read on for specific tips, taken from The Daily Green's expert garden blogger, Leslie Land, her New York Times book 1000 Gardening Questions & Answers and other sources.

Preparing the Soil

In order to get the best results with your new organic garden, you'll want to make sure the soil is properly conditioned. You have to eat, and so do plants, so make sure your veggies get lots of fresh nutrients. Good healthy soil helps build up strong, productive plants. Chemical soil treatments can not only seep into your food, but they can also harm the beneficial bacteria, worms and other microbes in the soil.

The best way to gauge the quality of your soil is to get it tested. You can get a home testing kit, or better, send a sample to your local agricultural extension office. For a modest fee you'll get a complete breakdown of pH and nutrient levels, as well as treatment recommendations (be sure to tell them you're going organic). That way you can tailor your gardening program. Typically, it's best to test in the fall, and apply any organic nutrients before winter.

Even if you don't have time for testing, you'll want to make sure your soil has plenty of humus -- the organic matter, not the similarly named Mediterranean spread. According to 1000 Gardening Questions & Answers, you'll want to mix in compost, leaf and grass clippings and manure. Manure should be composted, unless you aren't going to harvest or plant anything for two months after application. Preferably, get your manure from local livestock that have been organically and humanely raised -- and never use manure from animals that eat meat.

How to Make Good Compost

All gardens benefit from compost -- and preferably you can make your own on site. Hey, it's free! Compost feeds plants, helps conserve water, cuts down on weeds, and keeps food and yard waste out of landfills (where it produces methane), instead turning garbage into "black gold." Spread compost around plants, mix with potting soil, use to bolster struggling plants…it's hard to use too much!

The best compost forms from the right ratio of nitrogen- and carbon-rich organic waste, mixed with soil, water and air. It might sound like complicated chemistry, but don't worry too much if you don't have time to make perfect compost. Even a minimally tended pile will still yield decent results.

1. To get started, measure out a space at least three feet square. Your compost heap can be a simple pile or contained within a custom pen or bin (some can be rotated, to improve results).
2. Add alternating layers of carbon (or brown) material -- leaves and garden trimmings -- and nitrogen (or green) material -- such as kitchen scraps and manure, with a thin layer of soil in between.
3. Top off the pile with four to six inches of soil. Turn the pile as new layers are added and water to keep (barely) moist, in order to foster microbe action. You should get good compost in as little as two months (longer if it's cold).
4. A properly maintained compost pile shouldn't smell. But if it does add more dry carbon material (leaves, straw, or sawdust) and turn it more frequently.
5. Even if you live in a city, you can do some composting under your counter with a tidy worm kit, or partner with a community garden.

Choose the Right Plants

It really pays to select plants that will thrive in your specific micro-conditions. As a general guide don't forget to check the USDA's Hardiness Zones (which have recently been updated by the National Arbor Day Foundation due to climate change). Choose plants that will be well adjusted to each spot, in terms of light, moisture, drainage and soil quality. Most gardens have gradations in these variables. The happier your plants are, the more resistant they'll be to attackers.

If you're buying seedlings, look for plants raised without chemical fertilizers and pesticides. A great place to look is at your local farmers' market, which may also have native plants and varieties well suited to your area. It's better to buy stocky seedlings with few, if any blooms yet, and with roots that don't look overcrowded.

Many things are best grown from seed, including sunflowers, annual poppies, evening-scented stock (Matthiola bicornis), coriander, dill, annual phlox (Phlox drummondii), larkspur, annual lupine, morning glories, sweet peas, squash and cucumbers.

Plant Crops in Wide Beds

Plants that you will be harvesting, such as vegetables or cutting flowers, should be grouped tightly in beds that you don't walk on (raised beds work great). Grouping reduces weeding and water waste, and helps you target compost and nutrients. Easier path maintenance helps lead to healthy soil. Ample space between rows helps promote air circulation, which repels fungal attacks.

Remember that seedlings won't always stay diminutive, and you do want to try to limit over shadowing. It's a good idea to thin crops based on nursery suggestions.

According to Leslie Land, if you have limited space and time, and want the highest returns of fresh organic produce, these plants are typically winners:

1. Indeterminate Tomatoes. So named because the vines keep getting bigger and producing new fruit until they are felled by frost.

2. Non-Hybrid (Old-Fashioned) Pole Beans. They keep growing and producing 'til frost -- assuming you keep them picked.

3. Zucchini. Everything they say about avalanches of zucchini is true, especially of hybrid varieties.

4. Swiss Chard. You can keep breaking off outer leaves for months, and every picking will be tender as long as plants get enough water.

5. Tall Snow Peas and Sugarsnaps. They grow readily and produce delicious rewards.

Proper Watering

The best time to water plants is usually in the morning. Why? Mornings tend to be cool and without strong winds, so the amount of water lost to evaporation is reduced. If you water in the evening plants stay damp over night, making them more likely to be damaged by fungal and bacterial diseases.

Ideally, you want to water the roots, not the greenery, which is easily damaged. A drip or soak system can work great, or just carefully water the bases of plants by hand.

Most experts recommend substantial, infrequent watering for established plants, typically a total of about one inch of water per week (including rain). One or two applications a week encourages deeper rooting, which promotes stronger plants. To avoid shocking tender greenery, try to use water at or near air temperature (collected rainwater is best).

With population growth and climate change putting increasing pressure on our precious freshwater supplies, it is becoming more important than ever to save water.

Weeding

Ah weeding. Even if you live in the Biosphere, you'll still get weeds, since their tiny seeds are pervasive. Pulling weeds by hand may sound like hard work -- and it can be -- but it also can be good exercise, and gets you outside in the fresh air. You don't want to pour toxic chemicals on your food, or where your children and pets play, right?

Reduce the number of weeds you have to contend with by applying mulch (which also helps protect the soil). According to Leslie Land, organic mulch that will rot down into the soil is almost always preferable to landscape fabric, although burlap and other materials can work in a pinch. Straw is cheap but doesn't last long. Wood chips are nice, but can get pricey. Many people opt to use lawn clippings, although it should be noted that because they are high in nitrogen, clippings should only be used on plants that need a lot of the nutrient, such as squash and lettuce.

If you get tired of weeding or aren't able to bend over, consider hiring some neighborhood kids. It's a good way to get to know others in your community. Remember too that raised beds can be made wheelchair accessible, and others can take advantage of wheeled stools, arthritis-friendly gardening tools and other equipment.

Protect Plants Without Toxic Pesticides

If your plants are being assaulted by pests, it may be a sign of other problems, so the first thing you should do is make sure they are getting enough light, nutrients and moisture. Also remember that a diverse garden helps prevent pests, by limiting the amount of one type of plant offered up to enemies, and boosting biodiversity.

It's a good thing to foster natural predators in your garden, such as frogs, toads, lizards, birds, and even bats. Beneficial insects can be your best friends, especially lady bugs (many nurseries even sell cans of them, though it's true there's a high probability they won't stick around). Leave a small source of water out to attract friendly predators. It's also a good idea to grow plants with small blossoms, such as sweet alyssum and dill, which attract predatory insects. Nets and row covers can also work.

It may sound surprising, but homeowners use more pesticides on their lawns and gardens than farmers do, acre for acre, according to EPA data. But there are organic alternatives that are much safer for you and our environment. Find out what problem you have (an agricultural extension service can help), then look for alternatives.

Organic weapons include Bacillus thuringiensis, a naturally occurring bacteria that disrupts the digestion of caterpillars and other leaf-eaters. You can also use horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps and garlic and/or hot pepper sprays.

Harvesting

Don't forget to harvest the fruits of your labor! Fresh organic produce also makes great gifts, educating your friends, neighbors and coworkers. Generally, the more you harvest, the more your plants will produce for you.

During peak harvest season, you'll likely find that it's best to check your garden every day. Got herbs? If you use them fresh pick them right before you need them. But if you'll be drying and storing them, it's best to wait until just before they flower, since they'll have the most flavor. Gather all herbs except basil in mid morning, shortly after dew has dried. Harvest basil in the late afternoon, since it will last longer after some time in the sun. It's best not to wash herbs before you dry or use them, since that can leach flaor (extra incentive for growing organic!).

When harvesting leafy greens pick sporadically from the entire crop, a little from each plant. For broccoli, wait until the central head is as large as it will get, before sending off buds for flowering. Cut it off right above the leaf node, and you'll likely get better production from the rest of the plant. In general, it's best to cut produce off with a sharp knife or scissors, versus ripping with your fingers, which can cause more damage to plant tissue.

If you get too much bounty, remember you can also freeze, store some types of produce in a root cellar, or take up canning. Enjoy!

Cleanup

If you have sick plants to remove, either during the season or at the end of the year, make sure you pull up the entire organism. Don't forget to rake up underneath, since diseased leaves can harbor problems for a long time. Put all infected material deep in the woods, in the ground at least a foot deep, or on the bonfire.

Most healthy or expired plants can actually be left in place over winter. You'll provide some food and habitat for birds and other wildlife, and plant cover can help protect your soil from eroding. It's better to chop off annuals then yank them out, because that way you'll leave soil intact, and help prevent weeds from gaining a foothold.

[via The Daily Green]

5 New Solutions For Growing Healthy Produce Indoors

An increasing number of people are moving into urban environments and away from traditional agriculture. As a consequence, those who have a mind for self-sufficiency can find themselves falling short. Storable foods are of course an important part of every emergency prepper's pantry, but storable foods are not a sound long-term solution that contain optimal nutrition.

Even produce from farmers markets and store-bought organic food will lose peak freshness faster than one might imagine. Alanna Ketler from Collective-Evolution explains:

Most people do not realize that vegetables will lose about half of their nutrients within the first week of being picked. The food that you are getting from the supermarket will not be as nutritionally rich as the food you are growing yourself and consuming immediately after harvesting. Imagine how much more fresh and alive this food tastes. If you have or have ever had a garden I’m sure you have certainly noticed a difference. (Source)

Nothing can beat growing your own fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs, and flowers. But it is quite a challenge for those with limited space; not everyone can afford acres of land to become a full-fledged farmer. Then, of course, are the climate considerations that inhibit year-round growing in most places across the planet.

However, several high-tech solutions are becoming available for city dwellers, or those who have a less-than-green thumb. As food prices surge due to climatological and economic factors, there never has been a better time to find ways of becoming self-sufficient at a low cost. It's a movement toward becoming the ultimate locavore.

The following inventions offer an exciting way to have fresh produce year-round ... right in your own kitchen, while also presenting a potential reduction in overall cost.

Urban Cultivator

This is a hydroponic system that is currently in use both professionally and in personal homes. One model, as seen in the short promo below, is roughly the same size as a dishwasher and is set up in a similar manner, according to the site's design specs. By setting the perfect level of humidity and temperature, it's as simple as adding a 100% organic food solution to be able to grow a wide range of pesticide and chemical free produce in your indoor garden. Visit the site here.



For restaurateurs, here is what the commercial model looks like:

GrowCube

Using aeroponics, GrowCubes offer efficient indoor growing for a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, using 95 percent less water, with an added built-in resistance to diseases and pests. A software program underpins the system, offering a detailed Internet-connected analysis and customization platform to obtain and fulfill the optimal level of nutrients and maintenance. A coming Kickstarter program will focus on bringing this system to market later in the year.

Click and Grow Smart Farm

This is a another concept that is heavily invested in the ideas surrounding the Internet of Farming. The Click and Grow system is actually an expandable series of "smart pots" that can grow produce, as well as flowers. It begins by providing soil that remains in proper nutrient and pH balance throughout the growth of the plant. As they point out, the constant watering in traditional potted plants actually leaches away nutrients, so the addition of proper water management increases efficiency and production. This demo shows the process.

Kitchen Nano Garden

This is a concept being developed by Hyundai. It is roughly the size of a refrigerator and employs a similar method of hydroponic growing as seen in the Urban Cultivator. It controls the amount of light, nutrient supply and water to create the optimal efficiency for growing. The prototype won the 2010 Fast Company Idea Award and also doubles as a natural air purifier. While still only a concept, it is exciting to see a company with the resources of Hyundai working on this technology.

UrbGarden

While the four items above appeal to modern sensibilities, some of us still would like to retain a bit of the natural even if we can't get our hands dirty on a traditional farm. The UrbGarden is designed to be a vertical herb garden with an integrated worm farm for easy composting. The system produces a natural fertilizer which is then fed back through a drip system. Its open-window design offers an element of harvesting, as the grow trays are removed and re-potted as needed.

It is worth mentioning that in a grid-down situation, the four "high-tech solutions" offered here will become virtually useless as they rely on a power source, unless you of course have solar. And none of these systems should be seen as direct replacements for developing a solid relationship with your local farmer, farmers market, or development of community gardens. However, these solutions do enable people to get away from commercial food and the toxic packaging that its often wrapped in, while making the act of farming as easy and hassle free for as many people as possible.

[via Activist Post]

Tips to Freeze What You Grow

With plenty of gardening comes plenty of produce, but what can you do with all of it? You certainly can’t eat it all at once, and canning everything is a pain in the neck. However, your freezer might give you another option. Saving produce by freezing it is often very efficient, fast and easy to do. Most vegetables and fruits can be frozen without any loss of flavor. Plus by preparing it ahead of time you can make your meals faster and easier than ever. Here are some tips for freezing your produce:

Cut it Up

The first step to freezing your produce is preparation. You should cut the fruits and vegetables into the sizes you will use for meals. For example I peel and slice my peaches for use in pies and smoothies before I freeze them. I also shell my peas, dice my bell peppers, and shred my zucchini. By having the produce all ready to go it not only makes my meal preparation faster but makes it easier to freeze them. Keep in mind that some produce needs to be blanched before freezing to preserve the flavor and color.

Lay It Out

After the produce is prepared, it is time to freeze it. Although you can toss it all in a freezer bag and throw it in the freezer it is a lot harder to use it that way. It also takes up more room in your freezer. Instead, take a cue from the professionals and lay out your produce before freezing it. Get a large cookie sheet and line it. Then spread out the prepared produce in a single layer and freeze it. After it is frozen you can easily pour it into a container and it will be much easier to manipulate and defrost later. For liquids, like pureed produce and herbs, you have two options. You can pour it into an ice cube tray and freeze before putting the cubes in a bag. Or you can lay the bag on its side and freeze in a thin layer that is very easy to store.

Package It Well

Keep in mind that your produce will only stay fresh if you package it well. A regular sandwich bag will not do the trick. Instead make sure you use bags especially made for freezing or other methods that will keep your produce fresh. Vacuum sealing is a great way to keep produce fresh in the freezer for over a year!

Invest in a Good Freezer

Last but not least, you should invest in a good freezer to keep your produce lasting longer. The one that comes with your refrigerator is okay for short term storage, like a month or two, but for longer periods an independent freezer is much better at preserving foods. Just think about how much money you are saving on produce year round and it will make the investment of a freezer seem less overwhelming.

As you can see, freezing your produce is a great, easy way to make the most of your garden. Do not throw away rotten produce because you can’t eat it fast enough. Instead save it for up to a year or more in your freezer and have great fruits and vegetables any time of year that are tasty and homegrown.

6 Tips for Growing Winter Salad Greens

Summer's over, but there's no reason why you can't enjoy fresh, delicious salad greens throughout the winter months. With just a few small adjustments to your gardening methods and techniques,you'll be able to grow your own tasty winter salad greens all year round.

There are several hardy varieties of winter salad greens perfectly suited to colder climates. While the usual spring and summer varieties need warm weather, or a greenhouse, these leafy vegetables can be cultivated even in chilly temps. Learn how to sow seeds for winter salad greens with our easy gardening tips.

6 Tips for Growing Winter Salad Greens

1. Prepare your soil - If you're growing your winter salad greens outside, find a sheltered and sunny spot in your garden. Or choose large and narrow containers or pots for growing in a greenhouse or polytunnel. It's important to choose a spot (or pot) with good drainage as seedlings can freeze if left in pools of water. Sift your soil into a fine grade if using your own compost, and add any necessary nutrients such as lime or potassium to make potting soil.

2. Sowing the seeds - The ideal time for sowing seeds is between early September and late November, depending on the first estimated frost date in your area. Sow your seeds in short and shallow rows, spaced as instructed on your seed packet. Cover with a thin layer of soil and water. If you have sown your seeds outside and a cold night is in the forecast, cover them with a fleece or cloches to protect them. For a continous supply of salad greens, sow seeds apporximately every 3 to 4 weeks.

3. Caring for your seedlings - Keep the soil moist but don't let it get too wet, as the seedlings can die from the chill. Don't water your winter salad greens in the evening or too early in the morning. 

4. Thinning your greens - If you have sown ample seed, your beds or pots will have likely have too many seedlings trying to grow in them. You can thin them so that the ones you've left have ample growing space. Use the thinned baby greens in a salad!

5. Harvesting your greens - Your winter salad greens are ready for harvest when they are about 4 inches tall. Harvest the outer leaves, letting the smaller inner leaves form to full size.

6.  Suggested varieties:

• Arctic King Lettuce - a large butterhead type lettuce that is light green and crunchy.
• Texsel Greens - fast-growing leaves similar to spinach, also known as Ethiopian greens.
• Land Cress - an alternative to watercress, hardy and spicy. 
• Rouge d'Hiver Lettuce - dark green and reddish leaves, tender and similar to red Romaine lettuce.
• CanCan Endive - hardy and light green with a frisee type texture. 
• Golden Purslane - Similar to the hardy Winter Purslane, but with golden leaves and red stems or a colorful salad.
• Mizuna Greens - Japanese greens similar to arugula but less spicy and more tender.  

[via Organic Authority]